When Ryan arrived, everything changed. As an American living in Paris for many years, he had just the right wisdom to boost me out of my post-arrival haze: Don’t put pressure on yourself to figure it all out this week. It’ll come. And with that, he and I set out each morning to see Rome’s magnificent sights…and eat its glorious food. Within one day I was off of my nocturnal schedule and back among the people of daylight. Paul was diligently working for the majority of Ryan’s visit but we had a great weekend together, trapsing, eating, shopping.